Planting Pointers for Everyone! The Basics of Plant Care

Ah, where to begin? With the soil, of course! The soil in a pot is the cornerstone of healthy plants, and there's no getting around that. It's from here that plants draw the micro and macro elements they need for proper development. If your plants are under attack from greedy critters, you certainly need to get rid of them, but all the sprays in the world won't help if you don't look after the soil. Weakened (deprived of nourishment) plants are an easy target, so if you strengthen them from within, you'll definitely find it easier to combat whatever is trying to eat them.

Which soil to choose?

Coming back to the soil itself - which one should you pick? Sometimes I answer: "the richest", though that doesn't (always) mean the most expensive. Read the packaging to see exactly what's in it. If it's just "black soil", then there's basically nothing in it. The best will be enriched with various additives - humus, coconut fibre, fertilisers. The more, the merrier. Your plant will spend several, if not a dozen, years in this soil, so it's worth taking care of. Of course, plants like cacti or orchids need different soil altogether, and it's worth looking in shops for "soil for…", comparing the ingredients, and choosing the most generous one. While this doesn't apply to human food, with plants, use this rule of thumb: the more additives, the better!

First, let's establish: a pot has a hole at the bottom, a cachepot does not. You don't plant directly into cachepots, as plant roots easily rot without drainage. Of course, a pot should be made of natural materials – clay, i.e., terracotta, ceramic. Ecology is paramount, and a second argument is that these pots "breathe". Unlike metal, plastic, or glass, clay has pores that allow air to reach the roots, enabling them to develop healthily. I sometimes hear that the problem with new ceramic pots can be that they absorb a lot of water. Oh, that's no problem at all! Simply place them (even if they already have plants in them) in a bowl of water overnight. The pot should soak up its fill and then won't compete with your plants for water anymore.

You've got your soil and your pot – what next? To truly pamper your plant, you might want to add clay pebbles and perlite or vermiculite to your set-up. Clay pebbles are small lava "balls" that you sprinkle at the bottom of the pot for better drainage. A 2-3 cm layer of clay pebbles at the bottom is sufficient. Perlite and vermiculite, on the other hand, are materials available in florists and garden shops; a handful added to the soil and mixed in will make it lighter and help it retain moisture for longer. This is certainly a boon for sunny windowsills or for forgetful gardeners.

Take it out of its current pot. The best way is to hold it at the base and turn it upside down to easily remove the pot. Then, gently loosen the root ball with your fingers or cut it with scissors if it's very hard and compact. Place the plant in the new pot and check if it "sits" at the same height as in the previous pot. If it's much lower, lift it, add more soil underneath, and then fill in the rest. Gently press down with your fingers, then add a bit more soil without pressing. Done! Now, put the plant in a bowl of water for the entire night – let it, the soil, and the pot have a good soak.

Earlier, I mentioned getting or buying a new plant, which should ideally be repotted from plastic to clay as soon as possible. But how do you know if the plants you already have need repotting? It's simple – their roots hold the answer. If they're poking through the drainage hole, clearly visible on the surface, or if you can't push your finger into the soil, it means it's time to repot. Otherwise, if the roots aren't overgrown and "escaping" the pot, the plant can happily stay put.

My Watering Method

My method for watering plants is to place them in bowls, the bathtub, or deep containers and flood them with water. A generous amount. I usually do this in the evening or early morning. If, after a full day or night, the plant still has no water in its saucer – I top it up. Yes, until the water stops disappearing – that's the real sign the plant has had its fill. I pour any excess water into another pot, and then I leave such a thoroughly watered plant for a week or two without further watering.

How often to water plants?

When do I water again? I use my magic tool, which very easily and simply checks the soil moisture and tells me if it's time to water. I insert my entire index finger (for that's what I'm talking about) into the soil and check how moist it is at root level. The top of the soil is always dry, so you really need to push your finger deep! If I still feel moisture, I leave the plant; if it's dry – then it's time to give it another good drench.

Should plants be misted?

As for misting – I tend not to do it. Water on leaves leaves a residue, can lead to fungal diseases, or can scorch leaves on hot days. If I see dry leaf tips (which is a sign of dry air), I investigate why this is happening. Too close to a radiator or other heat source? Too much light? Not enough water? I place such plants among others to increase their ambient humidity, I put humidifiers on radiators, and I try to keep things a bit cooler. If I mist anything, it's aerial roots, for example, of orchids or monsteras – but never the leaves.

Houseplants are visitors from all over the world, from the most diverse lands. Sometimes they grow in full sun on rocks, like strelitzias or some succulents, and sometimes they grow in damp shade, like ferns or peace lilies. Here, you'll need to show some initiative and simply read up on which of your plants needs what kind of light. Many of them need diffused light, meaning they don't like to sit on a full-day sunny windowsill, but rather a little further away. Well-chosen light means healthy, vibrant, strong leaves that will be resistant to all sorts of pest attacks.

Yes, if you want your plants to be healthy, you must fertilise them. Of course, homemade ones will be fine, but bought ones will have exactly what your plants need. Choose them by their label's ingredients, comparing them with other fertilisers. Each will list the amount of NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium). Simply put – I pick the one with more ingredients. And that's that! In spring, I always give a little more fertiliser than suggested on the packaging, to stimulate the plants after winter. I stop using them in September, to let the plants know a new season is coming.

If you take care of the soil, the pot, and the sunlight, you've already got 75% of the success covered. A plant is a living organism, so it needs to be cared for. Remember that when you buy a plant, you're buying something that has travelled to Europe on a ship from distant lands. In that plant, there's not only a significant carbon footprint but also someone's labour, time, plus materials like the pot or soil. It's better to forego a plant if you don't have time for it. And if you have time and heart, that's all you need – because you've already got a green thumb.